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Mangez-vous Monégasque?
2010-06-24 12:46
You might imagine that, being sandwiched between France and Italy, Monaco enjoyed no culinary reputation of its own. Nothing could be further from the truth. Bien sur, the principality borrows from its neighbours' excellent tastes, but it also contributes an independent and distinctive cuisine. Throw in a smattering of North African spices and a handful of international chefs, and a unique eating experience awaits.
No wonder that this tiny country is so densely crowded with cafes and restaurants. A glance at our directory shows Michelin-starred French and Japanese chefs rubbing shoulders with kiosks and stalls selling fritters and bruschetti. Try the freshly fried barbagiuan - it's a five-star meal in itself!
Savouries
You'll find many delicious breads and pasties in Monaco. The local version of focaccia (called fougasse) is delicately scented with orange-flower water, and studded with hazelnuts and fenuyëti (sugared aniseed). There is a chickpea pancake, called fariná (also known as 'socca'), sometimes served with machetu, an anchovy paste, or baba ghannoush, a hummus-like confection made of seasoned aubergine and tahini.
Perhaps the most famous savoury is barbagiuan, or 'uncle John' , originally a Lenten pastie filled with pumpkin and leeks, spinach, rice, and cheese. And a great sea-and-earth combo is u stocafi. Sounds like 'stockfish' - because that's what it is - dried cod cooked with pureed tomato and chilli. This was traditionally served for Friday lunch (dernâ) but now you can get it at all times of the week, along with asparagus risotto, another favourite local dish.
At the end of June, you'll see the locals gathering in parks for a traditional picnic, organized by the mairie. What can be found in their hampers? Well, all the above, plus cundiún, a simple and refreshing tuna and tomato salad, and perhaps cardu, artichoke hearts in white sauce.
Picture: visitmonaco.com
Sweets
Apple fritters, or friscioei, are always popular, epecially at Christmas; and in strawberry season, indulge in delicious Prince Albert millefeuilles (above) made with fruit, cream and puff pastry.
Alex Went