Archive
Thank you for rating this article
Maryan Gandon at the Fairmont
2010-06-24 11:54
What strikes one about the Fairmont's executive chef, Maryan Gandon, is his calm, courteous nature. His head may be in the Michelin stars, but he directs the hotel’s kitchens with a practical, hands-on approach. Chef Gandon’s professionalism emerges in his teamwork, his talent for observation and organization. But it's his passion for the culinary arts that invites gourmet diners on an eclectic journey of taste-tempting flavours. Therein lies the inspiration for the 'balade gourmande', a voyage through a cornucopia of flavours devised by the alchemist chef himself at the Fairmont’s Argentin restaurant.
No question of stuffy, precious gastronomy here “This journey is a bouquet of international flavours,” says Gandon. “The diner is greeted by a mélange of traditional, exotic and Mediterranean tastes…without fear of added sugar or fat! Food must absolutely never be denatured. To preserve the original taste, I just add a flavour complementary to the palette. I take care to shorten the cooking time to exactly the right second, to produce added crispness. Make no mistake, I’m not inventing anything: I innovate, I adapt the dishes and I prepare them for today’s taste buds…”
Time to set out on the first stage of the journey, the 'balade' oceane or ocean tour, as demanded by this chef's Breton heritage. The oyster is the ocean’s unique pearl, and the Michelin-starred chef accompanies it with a variety of delights: salmon eggs, little morsels of coquilles Saint-Jacques, crab flakes, tofu, black pepper, crushed-ice champagne, apples grantis or smoked salmon. Next stop is Asia, a reminder that Chef Gandon was once part of a major Beijing food establishment. Here are the all-familiar nems, with mangoes and crab, beetroot and chicken, Chinese cabbage and shrimp, each accompanied by a delectably subtle sauce: soya, chilli or sesame.
No such food-fest could exclude sea and mountain specialities: risotto with white truffles and champagne, warm Auge Valley foie gras, rack of lamb on the spit, pork ribs, cod, red mullet, turnip gratin with prunes. Garnishes, seasonings and condiments are carefully added, associated, heated and stirred. Next stop is Spain, where the diner is encouraged to try the traditional Jabugo, a strong-flavoured, dark-red ham edged in shiny white fat that is hand sliced in generous portions and accompanied by thick slices of leavened bread.
Dessert is the final stop on this epic journey. An expert in pastries and classic sweets, Gandon gives traditional recipes an injection of youth. 'I enjoyed reworking mille-feuille, making it more delicate. I’ve prepared it with a very light chantilly perfumed with vanilla from the island of Reunion.' The Fairmont collection certainly isn’t limited by calorie counting. One look at the Floating Island, the chaud-froid fruit and other delights and it's hard to resist...
It’s natural for a Breton to navigate. And Gandon has already embarked on new projects. 'We're looking at the whole Fairmont restaurant service, It’s a question of display, welcome and giving precedence to local produce. We’re on the Mediterranean, but the hinterland too is bursting with culinary treasures and secret recipes'
Watch more of Maryan Gandon here