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Le Saint-Paul, St-Paul de Vence
2010-07-30 00:15
Saint-Paul's little gem - twenty years young
They say when you're in love, you always feel twenty, and nowhere does that saying apply more than to the timeless charm of Relais and Chateaux' Le St-Paul, an old stone residence which carries itself with all the assured elegance of a true aristocrat, and which has just celebrated its twentieth birthday. To stay here is to reconnect with the values of relaxation and refinement that you'd expect from a traditional French welcome.
Gazing out from a mediaeval peak over the stupendous views of the surrounding plain and the azure coast beyond, the hotel's 16 deluxe rooms seem to tell a story of endless comfort.
Enshrined within the ramparts of Saint-Paul, famous for its artists, the Relais St-Paul (****L) is an intimate jewel of a place, offering a point of stillness in an often turbulent world. It's the kind of place that doesn't make a great fuss, but whispers knowingly only to the initiated.
Acquired in 1987 as an abandoned ruin, and following an epic re-build, the St-Paul opened its doors in June 1989. Since 2004 it has been under the ownership of the Baglioni Group of Hotels, whose Roberto Polito specializes in creating accommodation of real character and charm. Along with the St-Paul, the Villa Gallici in Aix-en-Provence, the Château de Mirambeau in Charentes-Maritimes, the Royal Champagne in Champagne, the Château de Codignat in the Auvergne and the Hôtel Cala del Porto in Tuscany together form a network of luxury accommodation where they really know about the good life.
Chef Ludovic Puzenat, who has managed the kitchens here since 2006, offers a menu replete with the scents of Provence, and transforms local produce with a magic touch which has won him a coveted Michelin star. Trained under top chefs in Dijon, Vezelay, Lyon and Epernay, he now celebrates the South with an unconditional devotion.
In his hands, roast lobster, flaked spider-crab or braised shank enjoy a disarmingly easy dialogue with polenta, figs or zucchini flowers. These flavours are amplified by the suggestions of sommelier Gaylord Goulette, and culminate in the desserts of pastry chef Julien Cirino. The whole culinary adventure can be experienced in the vaulted dining room or, in sunny weather, on the terrace.
The future of this little gem has now been entrusted to a new director, Domenico Biamonti, former director and sales manager of luxury hotels in Monaco, the Port Palace, the Metropolis Monte Carlo and the Fairmont Hotel.
This understated location awaits the discovery of all conoisseurs.
Restaurant open daily from 12:30 to 1:45 and from 7.30 to 9.45 pm from April to October.
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday from noon in March, November and until December 17.
Annual closing from January 2 to February 2.
Hotel le Saint Paul
Saint-Paul de Vence
Tel.+334 93 32 65 25