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Walking the coast (2)
2010-08-09 02:12
Kevin Hin's guide to the Mala footpath
For me, the main reason to head to Cap d’Ail is the wonderful 3.6 km long coastal path which can comfortably be covered in an hour and stretches from the Plage Marquet (500m west of the border with Monaco at Fontvieille) to the splendid Plage de la Mala. This footpath, not to be used during days with rough seas, can easily be accessed by car or on foot from Monaco train station: most of it is pretty easy even if you’re not great hikers, apart from the last approach to the Mala beach which is slightly more strenuous. In the summer, there isn’t much shade and things can get rather warm, especially around midday, so, as with any walks you do on the Riviera, bring plenty of suncream and more water than you think you need. I would advise you to cover it starting from Monaco and ending at the Mala (leaving the best till last), although it can also be done in the opposite direction.
Leaving behind the Monaco wall of concrete and the port of Cap d’Ail, the vegetation suddenly turns wild and one follows a succession or rocky coves and bays, whilst passing underneath sumptuous Belle Epoque villas.
There are also plenty of little detours and easily accessible coves with secluded areas to swim in. Finally, the last bend round the cape and a beautiful but strenuous staircase bring you to what, in my humble opinion, is probably the most secluded, magical and gorgeous beach on the whole Côte d’Azur (and that's saying a lot), la Mala.
The turquoise deep water bay is surrounded by limestone cliffs with a view of the eastern coast of the Cap Ferrat peninsula in the distance and I describe it to my guests as looking like Thailand. In summer, the water is dotted with yachts and the rather exclusive beach bar is packed by some of the rich and famous (since I bumped into one of the former James Bonds several times there, relaxing and having a beer, one of my British friends has referred to la Mala as “Roger Moore Beach"). But on a sunny and mild winter’s day, the beach isn’t too crowded, the footpath is full of local families and the beauty of the area is just surreal. Note that even from the train, you can get a great view from above of la Mala, just before arriving in Cap d’Ail station (in the direction of Monaco and Ventimiglia/Italy).
Do note that you can also get to la Mala from Cap d’Ail railway station: just head towards the sea, you’ll get to the footpath and turn right: the beach is about ten minutes away. But if you have the time it would be a shame not to follow the footpath which will be a really memorable highlight of your stay on the Riviera and something not always mentioned in the guidebook. For more details for French speakers on this itinerary, there is some excellent and detailed background information on the regional government website
Getting to Cap d’Ail
Cap d’Ail is rather sprawled out along the coast from east to west along 5 kms.
- By train: Cap d’Ail train station is located in the town centre, about 3 kms west of Monaco and 10 kms east of Nice. There are regular coastal trains from either point, but make not all trains stop there, so check the timetables beforehand.
- By bus: Rapides Côte d’Azur line 100 provides services from Nice and Monaco approximately every 15 minutes. Allow during off peak hours about 15 minutes from Monaco and 35 from Nice, cost is €1.30 for a single journey regardless of the distance (the same applies for any bus trip within the Alpes Maritimes region, since January 2006)
Kevin Hin