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Dolceacqua: a perfect getaway
2010-06-24 13:54
For anyone living or visiting the Cote d'Azur, a trip across the border to Italy is so easy. One of the more extraordinary villages to visit is Dolceacqua, located just beyond Vintimille. As you leave the town (noing on your way the Roman ruins) you'll see a sign to the left which leads up the Nervia valley to Dolceacqua. The drive itself is particularly attractive in spring as you look up at the Alps covered in snow and glinting in the sunshine. A few kilometres on and suddenly you see the remains of the 11th century castle towering over the village.
Dolceacqua - whose name means sweet water - is divided into two sections, the older, 'La Tera' is on the right of the river and the newer part, built on the opposite bank in the 15th century, is called the 'Borgo'. They are linked by an elegant medieval span bridge of 33 metres, the Ponte Vecchio. Claude Monet painted the bridge in 1884 and wrote, 'the place is beautiful with a bridge that is a jewel of lightness.'
Like many other villages of this region, Dolceacqua is a fortified village with a castle and ancient walls built around the main village to protect it from invaders. The castle has passed through several hands over the centuries and has also been transformed and renovated many times.
The oldest traces of settlement in the area were the Castellars in the Iron Age, but the first document that mentions Dolceacqua dates back to 1151, when the Counts of Ventimiglia built the first part of the castle. The castle was bought in 1270 by Oberto Doria, Captain of the Genoese people and the victor of Pisa in the battle of Meloria, and was expanded by his successors over the centuries.
The history of Dolceacqua is closely connected with that of the Lordship of the Doria, which boasts among its many characters the mother of Admiral Andrea Doria. His name is forever identified with the ship, SS Andrea Doria, the pride of the Italian navy after the second World War, which tragically sank in the Atlantic in 1956 after a collision with MS Stockholm.
© Jilly Bennett
It's easy to park on either side of the river and then start your walk up the winding streets that culminate in the castle. The 13th century round tower which was a part of the original design was enlarged and incorporated within the walls in the 14th century. During the renaissance period, the castle was a large fortified manor with several new rooms. The rooms were extravagantly decorated with art works and frescoes around the central courtyard of the palace.
The castle had been attacked several times, and in 1744 it was destroyed during the War of Austrian succession. At the time, the castle was no longer occupied by the owners: fortunately for them, they'd moved to another palace near the main church of the village. Finally, in 1887, the castle again suffered at the hands of the massive earthquake that did so much damage in the Ligurian region.
However, the castle has recently undergone restoration and in 2007 was reopened and is now used for various cultural events. It has a conference hall and a projection room in which you can see a film (in four languages) showing the extraordinary history of the building.
Whilst the castle is the main attraction of this village of 2000 inhabitants, there is great pleasure in just wandering its ancient cobbled streets lined with old stone houses. The locals can be seen strolling around at all times of the day. As you start to climb the narrow streets, note how the houses are joined by small bridges. It's rather dark and you can so easily imagine life as it once was.
Following your visit to the castle, return to the main square at the foot of the village and pop into the cellar where you'll be offered wine to taste - and perhaps buy. Dolceacqua is famous for its dry, red wine (appellation DOC since 1972), called Rossese di Dolceacqua.
And before you look for a place to eat lunch, take a look around the main square at the foot of the village - enjoy its church with its many trompe l'oeil windows - it's fun spotting which ones are real and which aren't. You'll find restaurants in the village and across the bridge where you'll be served local specialities or a really good pizza.
Jilly Bennett