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Zermatt - in the shadow of the Matterhorn

2011-01-13 23:42

At first sight, Zermatt is like any other traditional Swiss village with its wooden chalets, cobbled streets and the all-pervasive smell of bratwurst but within a few minutes of arrival all that changes. Voted best ski resort in the world on numerous occasions, this is a five-star destination with prices to match, as Emile Bolt reports.

The village itself sits at the foot of the Matterhorn and as soon as you arrive it's difficult to escape the impression that you've walked into a Toblerone advert. There are numerous high-class destinations to stay, but we plumped for the four-star Alpenhof, with its bright furnishings and stylish bath facilities. Openly situated in the middle of the room, bathers are hidden from prying eyes by a fashionable screen.



The spa at the Alpenhof comprises three different steam rooms (one herbal), two saunas, twelve water beds where one can relax after a hard day's skiing, an indoor pool and an outside jacuzzi. Outside? At a ski resort? Take it from me: sitting in the hot water whilst the bubbles massage your sore muscles, and surrounded by a metre of snow, is an amazing experience. I can't say the same for getting out, but I guess that's all part of the fun.

The staff is friendly and extremely accommodating and you can collect your ski pass from the hotel reception. After a good night's sleep in your techni-colored bedroom you're feeling ready and totally 'amped' to hit the slopes.

Zermatt caters for all comers, from those who have never seen snow - let alone a pair of skis - to professionals who can take a trip round the Matterhorn in a helicopter and then ski all the way down into the village. There is also a snowpark with rails, tables, jumps and even a half pipe for true adrenalin junkies. And if you've still not had enough, you can ski to Italy for the day  - but be sure to catch the last lift back, as a taxi round the mountain is both long and expensive.

Zermatt is known for having the best on-piste restaurants but it is necessary to book weeks in advance because of the popularity. Returning to the piste after a traditional Swiss meal for a few final runs the best part of the day arrives. Apres-ski is a riot of loud music and everyone comparing their experiences on the slopes indulging in copious amounts of beer and gluhwein. Ah yes, this is what skiing is all about. Just before tiredness takes over it's time to head back to the hotel and the spa to recuperate ... only to do it all over again tomorrow.

Where to stay

Apart from the Alpenhof (4-star, double rooms from €175 to €220), try the Riffelberg, the historic hotel where Mark Twain famously stayed in August 1878. For skiing parties of up to 10, it may be worth booking a luxury chalet such as the Zermatt Lodge (below) at €17,000 for a week. Chalets available through the Oxford Ski Company.


Getting there and passes

by air:  Nice to Geneva: Travelling time: 1 hour, then
by train: Geneva to Visp, Visp to Zermatt. Price €70 Euros. Travelling time: 3h 45 min, or
by taxi: Geneva to Zermatt. Price: €736 one way. Travelling time 2h 30 min
Ski passes for 6 days: €290